North Norfolk Days

Sunday 14^th April A10 north to King’s Lynn – fields of rape glowing in the sun against an ashen sky.  A149 to the NN coast and through Holm, Thornham and Titchwell.  Down to the beach at Brancaster in a chilly easterly; blocks of black stone protect the RNGC Club House. Brancaster Staithe, Burnham Deepdale then Burnham Overy Staithe: low tide; piping avocets, redshanks and oystercatchers feeding on the mud banks; geese calling from the meadows and marshes.  Lunch at The Hero, crowded.  At Holkham emerging saltmarsh taking over the once unbroken sand.

Monday 15^th April  Early walk on Wells beach.  Tide far out; sand banks, gullies and a distant line of surf create false horizons; figures well-wrapped against the wind become tiny exclamation marks on a shorescape of endless sea and sky.  The wind passes through Holkham Meals in soughing waves.  Along Staithe Street, a mix of kiss-me-quick seaside jollity vies with attempts at style and sophistication.  On the quay the Albatros offers Dutch cuisine; and innocent childhood crabbing has been commercialised.

Tuesday 16^th April  Leisurely breakfast.  Out through Stiffkey and Morston to Blakeney.  Doors to 15^th cent. Guildhall open, palm-like brick vaults spring from octagonal columns.  Up to St Nicholas: in a corner of a south window bishops set off to confront the Pelagian Heresy.  (Hmm.)  Cley.  Tide up, waves creating a thundering longshore drift; a skein of Brent geese overhead and fishermen casting lines hopefully over the surf.  Via Salthouse and Weybourn to Sheringham; angry green-brown sea battering black rock sea defences – they will be sand one day.  Pasta for supper as a goldfinch sings in the garden.

Wednesday 17^th April  Woken by a blackbird.  On Wells beach the distant surf booms across the sand and a dredger builds giant sand castles.  Two hundred chalets (grand beach huts) look across open, vulnerable territory – one on the market for £53,750.  Coffee at Artemis in Cley; sign in the loo says ‘What if the hokey cokey really IS what it’s all about?’  Crab sandwiches for lunch in Holt.  Home.