Hunstanton 30th November. Driving up here from Cambridge through a pale, rimy landscape sparkling in welcome November sun. Beyond King’s Lynn the mist and frost clear; the roadsides are punctuate with patches of red and gold. Hunstanton basks in the sun, rocks and groynes cast dark shadows, the tide is falling. Pairs of fulmars grunt and bicker hoarsely from their ledges along the cliffs; below, slabs of chalk, smoothed by the sea, shimmer in the low sun. It’s calm; far out across the Wash wind turbines turn slowly under cloud castles.