Hotel Eden. Les Praz de Chamonix, 24th August 2008
The day dawned crystal clear, the rising sun turning the summit of Mont Blanc and the surrounding peaks brilliant, glittering white, the sky the palest ice blue streaked by chalky contrails. Below the shimmering peaks the snow blended into the ashy grey of the glaciers, interrupted by the dark saw toothed edge of the coniferous tree line. Outside, dedicated walkers set off with backpacks and sticks.
After an early breakfast, Sarah drove us to Chamonix to catch the gondola up to the Aguille du Midi. We paused at the first station, Plan de l’Aiguille, 2317 m, to acclimatize ourselves a little; tiny figures ascending a snow ridge cast long shadows across the pristine surface. Then on to the the Upper Station, 3777 m, and finally the elevator to the summit, 3842 m, light-headed and out of breath. An alpine panorama of snow, rocks and peaks spreading in every direction dominated by the mass of Mont Blanc, the highest peak in Europe, 4808 m.
From the top we floated in four-person cable cars up into the clouds over the seracs and crevasses of Glacier du Géant to reach the Pointe Helbronner and drink Italian coffee in a crowded bar.
Back at Plan De L’Aiguille, we picnicked on cheese rolls, apples and Mars Bars overlooking the valley. We set off mid-afternoon on the traverse to Montenvers, across the mountainside below the Mont Blanc Massif with views across to the Aiguille Rouge Mountains. It’s what the guide book describes as ‘one of Chamonix’s classic rambles’ – wonderful views, alpine flowers, ravens and choughs, sunshine and fresh mountain air. It may be a ramble in alpine terms, but to us, more used to the gentle landscape of East Anglia, it was rugged and at times precarious. We made poor time and arrived in Montenvers two and a half hours later to find that the last funicular train had gone, which meant walking down Chamonix. We reached the station at eight o’clock, knees and feet crying out for relief after four and a half hours walking. It all felt far too much, but over beer and pizza we moved on to the thankful, euphoric stage of reflection on what an adventure and achievement it had been.