Mining the Diaries 85: Spain
Flat 3, 1, Carrer de Beltem, Valencia, Spain 21st September 2013
We took an open top tour bus from Placa de la Reina, alighted at the eastern end of the Turia River Park (former course of eponymous river) and walked back through the City of Arts and Sciences (La Ciutat de las Arts i Ciencies): the Oceanarium (L’Oceanogrfic), the Planetarium and Laserium (L’Hemispheric), the Science Museum (Museu de les Ciencies Principe Filipe), the Opera House (Palau de les Arts Reina Sofia) and the Concert Hall (Palau de la Musica). Designed by Santiago Calatrava and Félix Candela, construction on the project began in July 1996, and was inaugurated in April 1998 with the opening of L’Hemispheric. The last major component of the City, Palau de les Arts Reina Sofía, was opened in October 2005
It was a ‘City’ of contrasts. The Oceanarium was accessible and welcoming while offering spectacle, education and polemic, with sharks (sinister beauty), sun fish (unlovable), spider crabs (scary) and guitarfish (a sinuous ray) to wonder at. But pity the poor beluga whales swimming in aimless circles, the oceanic equivalent of pacing captive polar bears. The Opera House was closed, with no concession for casual interested visitors; the Science Museum seemed austere and unwelcoming; and we were not in the mood to wait all day for the IMAX experience in the armadillo-like L’Hemispheric. The Concert Hall was light and airy and filled with harmonies relayed from the practice rooms.
My diary notes don’t mention L’Umbracle, Assut de l’Or Bridge and L’Àgora, though doubtless we saw them. It was a place of big buildings and big spaces and humans took on ant-like proportions in a hard pristine world. Trophy architecture by star architects for political aggrandisement?